Photography by Dom Casserly

Michele Ragussis is a reality TV celebrity and an executive chef at a popular P-town restaurant

Even though celebrity chef Michele Ragussis has appeared on seven major TV food shows and has more shows in the works, she has not let stardom go to her head. When guests dine at Central House at The Crown & Anchor Hotel in Provincetown, the gregarious executive chef makes it a point to step out of the kitchen and into the dining room, on the deck overlooking bustling Commercial Street, and chat with guests while they feast on her signature dishes, such as linguine and clams.

In recent years, Ragussis has appeared on the Food Network’s “Chopped,” “24 Hour Restaurant Battle,” and “Comeback Kitchen,” and was a finalist on the eighth season of “Food Network Star.” She also appeared on NBC’s “Food Fighters” and FYI’s “Midnight Feast” and was a judge on “Beat Bobby Flay.” She spent three seasons as executive chef at The Pearl, a waterfront restaurant in Rockland, Maine, before moving to Boston in 2014, and Cape Cod six months thereafter.

Now in her second season as executive chef at Central House, Ragussis says she is having the time of her life. “We are crushing it!” she says with a laugh.

Her boss, Rick Murray, The Crown & Anchor’s president and general manager, couldn’t agree more. “Michele’s homemade pasta dishes hit it out of the ballpark, like her lobster pappardelle,” he says, waving a hand as if smelling the savory aroma. “She has a gift for bringing out the flavor. She’s got high standards, and because of that, we have a lot of return customers.”

Photography by Dom Casserly

Ragussis says her cooking style takes a little from her heritage—her father was Greek and her mother was Sicilian—and a little from the diversity of New England. “There’s not really a name for it,” she says of her cuisine. “It’s Greek, it’s Italian, it’s Portuguese, it’s New England—that’s how I’d put it.” One example of her eclectic approach is how she prepares Wellfleet oysters; she breads and flash fries the oysters, and tops the dish with roasted bone marrow and pickled zucchini blossoms. “Sometimes I’ll be lying in bed,” she says, “and these ideas just come to me.”

Central House is “true farm to table,” Ragussis says. “We make everything from scratch. We make all our cheeses and pastas; we don’t buy anything from big companies.”

Ragussis was born and raised in Derby, Connecticut. “Food was a huge part of my life,” she recalls. “In fact, I think the very first thing I ever smelled when I was born was a home-cooked turkey! I was born on Thanksgiving Day—and my father brought a Thanksgiving turkey to the hospital.”

While living in Ashville, North Carolina, some 10 years ago, Ragussis decided she wanted to appear on the Food Network. She packed her bags, moved to New York City, and vowed not to leave New York until she achieved her dream. “You have to be a go-getter,” she says. “You have to accept the word no, get over it, and keep going. People will tell you that you can’t do something, and you do it anyway. Especially in the world of kitchens—it’s male dominated, and you have to be a strong female.”

Photography by Dom Casserly

“She comes across as being a badass,” says Penny Davidi, a celebrity chef and culinary specialist with US Foods, based in Beverly Hills, California, and a “Comeback Kitchen” co-contestant. “But she’s the biggest softie and even kind of a girly girl.” Chefs participating in “Comeback Kitchen” are sequestered in a hotel for three weeks. They are not allowed to watch TV, talk on the phone, or even read a book. “You’re supposed to just keep to yourself, before competing on the air, and Michele and I and some of the others really got to know each other,” Davidi says. “Michele is fun, and she’s seriously dedicated to her craft. She’s good on her toes and able to think fast. On the show, she nailed it every time.”

While in Boston, Ragussis says she was browsing Craigslist when she saw the advertisement for an executive chef at Central House. “I had to laugh,” she says, “because when I was 15 I actually ran away to P-town, and I always told myself I’d come back and live here. The manager happened to be in Boston that day.” Ragussis and Murray hit it off immediately. “We’re both Italian,” she says. “He gives me complete freedom to cook whatever I want.”

Ragussis invited James Cunningham, her sous-chef at The Pearl, to work in the same role at Central House. “I make all the sauces, he makes the pastas and desserts. Together we make a great combo,” she says. “Not to brag, but we had people who had just come from traveling in Italy, and when I came out and asked how everything was, they said, ‘This is the best pasta we’ve ever had.’ ”

The TV cooking show veteran plans to produce her own cooking show one day. “It’ll be about New England cooking,” Ragussis says. “Every place in New England is so unique, so different from each other. I want to bring back hand-to-pot. I’ll go to a farm, pick out what I want, and show people how to make it.” She has already embarked on a show in P-town called “Funny Food,” in which she’ll combine comedy and food, as she teaches comedians how to cook.

Ragussis says she can’t imagine not cooking. “It’s such a great way to express myself,” she says. “I love to please my friends. Cooking is a lot of love to be giving out. And being a chef, I get to do it for thousands of people.”

The post Her star is on the rise appeared first on Cape Cod LIFE.

Highfield Hall & Gardens

Highfield Hall & Gardens exhibits “Kanreki: A 60 Year Journey,” a colorful collection of Japanese prints

An exhibition of world-class contemporary Japanese prints may seem like an odd fit for the local art scene, and conversely, a cultural center on Cape Cod might seem an unusual venue for a Japanese print exhibition. But Cape Cod has two parallel artistic traditions: the homegrown and the imported. Considering that artists of all persuasions have been traveling over the bridges for decades to introduce their work to new audiences, “Kanreki: A 60 Year Journey,” on view at Highfield Hall & Gardens in Falmouth through this fall, fits nicely within that century-old tradition.

This special exhibition marks milestones for both host organizations: College Women’s Association of Japan (CWAJ) and Highfield Hall & Gardens. Kanreki refers to the 60th birthday, an honored occasion in Japan, and this exhibit is the 60th one for CWAJ. This year also marks 10 years since Highfield Hall & Gardens opened as a cultural center celebrating the arts. “For our 10th anniversary we were hoping to find an extraordinary exhibition,” says Annie Dean, Highfield’s director of programs and exhibitions. “The CWAJ show does not travel often. This was a remarkable opportunity, and I embraced it.”

The exhibition has garnered a reputation as a celebration of cutting-edge printmaking styles and techniques. “This internationally renowned exhibition of contemporary Japanese printmakers travels overseas to major cultural centers every 10 years—the Library of Congress in Washington, D.C. 10 years ago, and 20 years ago, the British Museum in London,” explains Peter Franklin, executive director at Highfield. First shown in Tokyo and later in Kobe, Japan, Kanreki showcases the work of nearly 200 emerging and established printmakers, many of whom live in Japan.

Most impressive is the range in virtually every facet of the exhibited works, from technique to content. “The diversity of the techniques used and the technical skill exhibited by these printmakers is thrilling,” says Dean. Even the size range of the prints is extensive, with the smallest being letter-sized and the largest approaching five feet. The exhibit features woodcuts, lithographs, intaglio (etchings and engravings), stencils and screen prints, and digital processes, with many printmakers combining several methods in one print.

“Carnivorous AY-O-saurus I” Ayo

Those familiar with traditional Japanese woodcuts such as ukiyo-e may be surprised by the variety in style and substance of the works on view. Many of the artists pay tribute to traditional, familiar motifs such as kabuki characters, nature, architecture, and interior scenes, while injecting them with a modern sensibility and their own artistic point of view. Often, they explicitly play with those traditional ideas, as if nodding or winking at the past. A perennial theme in Japanese art, nature can be found portrayed as a cartoony fantasy, as in Kumiko Hattori’s “My Relationship with the Forest II,” or as an Escher-like mosaic of repeated birds, as in Azusa Takahashi’s “Sparrows in One Spot.”

The exhibition represents a significant step in Highfield’s evolution, as the organization seeks to broaden its outreach and name recognition, says Franklin. “Bringing world-class cultural events to Highfield Hall & Gardens supports our strategy to make Falmouth and Cape Cod a regional leader in arts and culture in Massachusetts,” he adds.

For members of CWAJ, Highfield was an ideal location. “Over the last few years, the quality of exhibitions and programming at Highfield Hall & Gardens has been impressive,” says Joanne Fallon, CWAJ exhibition co-chair. “Interestingly, Highfield serves a very diverse audience, as it attracts Cape residents, as well as regional and international summer guests. My Tokyo-based co-chair, Motoko Inoue, and I feel Highfield is an excellent venue for introducing contemporary Japanese prints and the work of CWAJ.”

The College Women’s Association of Japan was founded in Tokyo in the aftermath of World War II by a group of Japanese and American alumnae of Mount Holyoke College and Wellesley College. Educational opportunities for Japanese students were greatly limited by the war, and the CWAJ’s early mission was to provide funds for students to travel to the United States for college. Over the ensuing decades, the Japan-based organization assembled a membership of American women (ex-pats and those with ties to Japan) and Japanese women who studied in the U.S. It has grown and expanded beyond its original scope, now offering scholarships and programs for both Japanese and foreign scholars to continue their research and education, either in Japan or abroad.

“TACIT 3” Amano, Kunihiro

The annual print show is one of the organization’s most popular and lucrative fundraisers. Earnings go directly to support a wide-ranging slate of programs and services, including Fukushima earthquake relief, traveling scholarships, English classes for children, and programs for the visually impaired.

For the first print show in Tokyo in 1956, the members of CWAJ collaborated with American art critic Oliver Statler, who, through his book Modern Japanese Prints: An Art Reborn, was one of the first international critics to give serious consideration to contemporary Japanese printmaking. The artists included in that first exhibition were proponents of the “creative print” movement in Japan, known as sosaku hanga. These artists combined centuries-old printmaking techniques with individuality and freedom of expression. This was in sharp contrast to the production of ukiyo-e in the 19th century, when artists were often limited by the desires and directives of their publishers. CWAJ used the earnings from this first show to fund its nascent travel grant program.

What started out as a small event in the 1950s has grown, according to Dean, into one of the most respected international print exhibitions. Works by established master printmakers—Toko Shinoda, Tadashi Nakayama, Tadanori Yokoo, Reika Iwami, and Michiko Hoshino, to name a few—are juxtaposed with pieces by emerging artists such as Sohee Kim and Satomi Tanaka.

The kanreki is known in Japan as a rebirth, providing a moment to reflect on past history and achievements—a fitting theme for Highfield’s anniversary celebration. Indeed the exhibition is a framework for much of Highfield’s programming throughout the 2016 season, including a farm-to-table cooking series with Japanese flair; bonsai and ikebana demonstrations; a bento box workshop; and a children’s program focused on Japanese crafts and culture.

Dean says the show, which opened in June, appeals to a wide audience. “Because of the diversity of style and subject matter in the prints, there is literally something for everyone to fall in love with,” she says. “If you’re planning a visit, come and spend the day at Highfield. The show is extensive; our grounds are perfect for a picnic, the woods for a stroll, and the gardens and outdoor sculptures for contemplation.”

The post Six decades in the making appeared first on Cape Cod LIFE.

Photography courtesy of Ethan Daniels

Cape Cod native explores the world’s oceans to photograph rarely seen marine life

Ethan Daniels is not your ordinary photographer. He’s not even your ordinary wildlife photographer. A native of Orleans, Daniels travels the world to snorkel in exotic locations and capture images of rarely seen species of marine life.

“I prefer to shoot areas that other photographers don’t, or won’t, or can’t,” Daniels says. In past years, trendy wildlife assignments have included photographing great white sharks, he says, but more recently the most fearless photographers have been shooting blue whales, or crocodiles in Indonesia. “The only way to make a living in photography these days is to do what others are not doing. I spend a lot of time in areas like mangroves that not many other photographers go.”

A resident of El Cerrito, California, who grew up in Orleans, Daniels, 43, travels the world for his profession, spending most of his time in Indonesia. Working in these waters, he regularly photographs manta rays, octopus, squid, and cuttlefish and often comes across what he describes as “bizarre-looking” and venomous species, such as scorpion fish and spiny devilfish. Occasionally, he will encounter black-and-white-banded snakes, which he says are venomous—but docile. “It’s the most diverse part of the planet in terms of marine organizations,” he says of Indonesia.

In a recent interview at Pilgrim Lake in Orleans, Daniels talked about his work, his appreciation of nature, and some of the interesting wildlife he has come across in the world’s waters. Then, he donned his wet suit, unpacked his underwater camera, and demonstrated a day on the job with a swim and shoot in the lake, the same spot where he first learned to swim as a boy.

Ethan Daniels hard at work

Daniels says he has always been interested in biology. “It’s such a mystery to me how this all works. No matter how much we know, it’s just a tiny fraction of what there is to know . . . and I like that.” He says photography helps him learn—and also provides a way to make a living. “Almost every time I’m in the water, I see, if not a new species, then a new behavior.”

As a teenager, Daniels moved to Rochester, New York, where he attended high school. He studied biology at Bucknell University in Pennsylvania, and during summer breaks he interned with the dive team at New England Aquarium. After graduation, he traveled overseas for about 10 years, working in Palau, and earning a graduate degree in the behavioral ecology of reef fish at the University of Guam. In 2004, Daniels moved to California, where he spends about half his time each year.

During the remaining six or seven months he travels, shooting photographs for several publications and stock photography agencies. In addition to Indonesia, Daniels regularly visits the Philippines, Palau, Yap, and the Solomon Islands.

He also travels to the Dominican Republic every year to photograph humpback whales—the same whales one might see in the waters off Cape Cod at a different time of year. “It’s pretty awesome being in the water with whales—as you might imagine,” Daniels says. “It’s one of my favorite things to do.”

In the United States, it is illegal for people to be in the water with certain whale species, such as humpbacks and minke, and so photographers travel to other countries in hopes of photographing them. In his experience, Daniels says, whales are safe to be around. Some are curious, some are indifferent, and some have wanted nothing to do with him. What about killer whales? Daniels says one day he would “possibly” love to be in the water with orca, but the animals “are very scary and smart.”

Photography courtesy of Ethan Daniels

Daniels has also photographed different shark species, including blues. “They are very inquisitive,” he says, but not so dangerous. In Indonesia, he comes across small reef sharks most often, adding that many of the larger sharks have been fished out.

He has photographed great whites as well, including once while in an underwater cage. Daniels says most predators in the water, such as great whites, attack their prey from behind or below, and that’s why it is not good to go diving or snorkeling when visibility is poor. “Nothing is certain in the water,” he says. “If you see it, you’re in good shape.”

Daniels also works in freshwater lakes, and marine or saltwater lakes. The latter are often remote and may require a rigorous climb to reach, but encountering rarely seen endemic life is the photographer’s reward.

Daniels favors wide-angle lenses, which allow him to focus on a subject—a turtle, for example—while still capturing a good amount of the animal’s surroundings and background in the pictures. He uses a “close focus, wide angle” technique, and sometimes he gets very close to his subjects; there are times he will be just an inch away from a snapping turtle or other animal. What makes for an ideal underwater image? “You’re trying to find a fish or turtle that works with you,” he says.

In 2010 Daniels published his first book of photography, Under Cape Cod Waters. It features many photos shot in Pleasant Bay, and also covers the ecology and natural history of the Cape. One discovery Daniels made while researching the book was that there are snapping turtles aplenty in Cape Cod lakes. He also sees bass, pickerel, sunfish, herring, painted turtles, musk turtles, frogs, and snakes, including the black racer. “They like to hunt the frogs and things right around the edge,” he says.

Photography courtesy of Ethan Daniels

“Each lake on Cape Cod is like a unique little ecosystem,” he says, adding that he particularly likes Pilgrim Lake because it’s large enough to provide a habitat for a variety of wildlife, including fish and amphibians. The lake is about 25 feet deep in the middle, and the visibility varies depending on the season and the weather. “When I was young,” he says, “[the visibility] seemed to be better.”

Snorkeling and diving in the waters of Cape Cod presents its own set of challenges. When working in ponds, for instance, Daniels says he must always check for leeches following a shoot. Once, when he was young, he emerged from a local pond after swimming to find 50 leeches on him. “You can’t feel them,” he says.

Off the coast, there are strong currents, he says, and the water is so cold one must wear either a wet suit or a dry suit. Daniels has snorkeled around several shipwrecks off Cape Cod, including that of the Port Hunter off Falmouth, and a barge off Chatham that was sunk by a German submarine during World War I. “The wrecks here are hard core,” he says.

In addition to his photography work, Daniels also co-owns a tour company called Coral Triangle Adventures with his business partner, Lee Goldman. The business offers guided 12-day snorkeling tours in the waters of Indonesia, Micronesia, Fiji, the Philippines, and Papua New Guinea. By day, Daniels and Goldman guide tour participants on snorkeling expeditions to view the region’s spectacular coral reefs, and at night, they give presentations on the region’s natural history. Most tour attendees are Americans, Daniels says, but the trips “are for anyone who is interested in travel to remote areas.” The groups meet in the country—say Bali, Indonesia—before heading out for the journey. Most of the trips are based on “live-aboard ships,” rather than hotels, which allow the travelers to get in and out of the region’s best coral reef sites with ease.

Every year, Daniels returns to the Cape at least once. He sees his parents in Orleans, and generally embarks on one or two snorkeling sessions per day. There are so many different lakes on the Cape, he says, and—though they are beautiful and bursting with wildlife—he never sees anyone else with a camera. “I’ve never seen any [photographer] in any of the freshwater habitats,” he says. “It’s not super exciting—it’s not like diving with great white sharks—but it’s a hell of a lot easier, and, I find, just as beautiful.”

For more information on Ethan Daniels’ work, visit coraltriangleadventures.com.

Matthew J. Gill is the editor of Cape Cod Life Publications.

The post Where angelfish fear to tread appeared first on Cape Cod LIFE.

Naushon Island (top left) and Goats Neck (center) are separated by Hadley Harbor. Bull Island and Uncatena Island are at top right.

Thoreau was impressed by Naushon Island’s old-growth forest

Henry David Thoreau visited Cape Cod and the Islands on at least five occasions during the mid-1800s, “wishing,” as he would write in Cape Cod, “to get a better view of the ocean.” On his December 27, 1854 trip from New Bedford to Nantucket to give a lecture, the writer “was obliged to pay the usual tribute to the sea,” and “went away with [his] head hanging over the side the whole way.” Thoreau thought his lecture, delivered to the islanders at the Nantucket Antheneum, went over well, but on the return trip the ferry became “lost in the fog off Hyannis.”

On his fifth journey to the region, in 1856, Thoreau accompanied Daniel Ricketson and his sons, Arthur and Walton, by ferry to Naushon Island of the Elizabeth Islands. Ricketson was a poet, writer, philosopher, and a man of leisure—and a Thoreau disciple. He had been inspired to initiate a friendship with the writer after reading Thoreau’s Walden, published in 1854.

In June of 1856, the men exchanged weeklong visits, with Ricketson first traveling to Thoreau’s Concord and Walden Pond, and the pair then visiting several times with the poet Ralph Waldo Emerson. The two kindred spirits left Concord together, and Thoreau would spend the following week as a guest at Ricketson’s “Brooklawn” estate in New Bedford. “I enjoyed the visit of Thoreau very much,” Ricketson wrote in his journal. “He improves, unlike most people, upon an intimate acquaintance—modest and gentle in his manner, the best read and most intelligent man I ever knew. He is also a very good naturalist. My respect for his character and talents is greater than for any man I know.” The next stop on the friends’ journey was to Naushon of the Elizabeth Islands.

In summer, when the fishing was good, Wampanoag Indians paddled their canoes, or mishoons, back and forth across Woods Hole Passage from the mainland to Naushon.  They had good reason, for they named this island Kataymuck, or “the great fishing place.” The name used today is Naushon, which refers to the “tide rips or currents” found at Woods Hole.

Elwood Mills, Jr. painted this imagined scene of Thoreau in Naushon’s beech forest.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, Naushon was occasionally referred to as Governors Island, because one family member from each of the longtime owners of the island—the Winthrops and the Bowdoins—had served as governor of Massachusetts. The Winthrops’ ownership lasted 48 years, from 1682 to 1730; the Bowdoins’ reign lasted 113 years, from 1730 to 1843. In 1833 William W. Swain was appointed manager of the island by the trustees of the Bowdoin family. He was nicknamed “Governor” of Naushon, and held the position for 10 years.

Together, Swain and John M. Forbes of Milton—the husband of the former’s niece, Sarah Swain Hathaway—purchased Naushon from the Bowdoin family estate in 1843. Taking advantage of a great opportunity (see below) the men purchased the island, with its 5,000 acres, for $20,000.

During the next century and a half, many dignitaries traveled to Naushon to visit members of the Forbes family. Their stays are well documented in the Mansion House, which has a corner devoted to a presidential hat collection. The visitors included Presidents Ulysses Grant, Grover Cleveland, Franklin Roosevelt, Dwight Eisenhower, and John F. Kennedy. In 1993 and 1994, President Bill Clinton and First Lady Hillary Clinton visited the island as guests of Senator John Forbes Kerry.

Well-known ornithological celebrities also made appearances over the years, including William Brewster in 1900. Occasionally a troupe of visitors would arrive on the island seasick, having traversed rough seas sailing across Buzzards Bay from New Bedford. After recovering from one such bout, Emerson wrote in his diary: “I came away saying to myself of John M. Forbes, how little this man suspects, with his sympathy for men and his respect for lettered and scientific people, that he is not likely ever to meet a man who is superior to himself.”

Elwood O. Mills Jr. painted this view of Robinson’s Hole and Naushon Island.

On Cape Cod and the Islands, the forests that Bartholomew Gosnold had seen in 1602 were gone by the 1850s. Forests were cut for fuel and house building, and used for prized ship timbers. Parts of Naushon were cleared of trees for farming.

During the early 1920s, one of the Bowdoin heirs who lived in England, James Temple Bowdoin, was in need of funds, and decided to tap into the wealth of the Naushon forest. In 1824 a wharf was built on the west side of the island, at Kettle Cove, for loading cargo-carrying vessels. Beginning in April of that year, sloops and schooners transported refuse wood, cordwood, logs, and ship timbers to and from ports from Maine to New York. Ultimately, the clear cutting was halted by a November 1, 1825 court order. By then, the woodchoppers had clear-cut a wide area of the southwest end of the island, taking upwards of 3,000 cords of wood. Red and white oak was a favored tree for valuable ship knees, and timbers. The cross-grained wood of beech trees does not dry well, so beech was not a favorite of early lumbermen. More than half of the trees on Naushon were beech, so much of the forest escaped the axe.

The clear cutting of the trees on the island also sparked a dispute of Naushon’s ownership, resulting in a court battle between the Bowdoin heirs and Bowdoin College; eventually, the island was sold to Forbes and Swain in 1843.

Thoreau visited the northeast end of Naushon in 1856, 32 years after the woodchoppers had left their mark on the southwest. After landing at Hadley Harbor, Thoreau must have been relieved to step ashore and escape to the forest for a while. On his two-hour cruise aboard the steamer Eagle’s Wing out of New Bedford, he was accompanied by a crowd, and a loud band. In a journal entry dated June 27, Thoreau writes about the Elizabeth Islands being “mostly bare except the east end of Naushon. I had some two and a half hours there. I was surprised to find such a noble and primitive wood, chiefly beech, such as the English poets celebrate, and oak, large and spreading.” He also noted the island’s “great tupelos, two or three feet in diameter.”

Naushon Island & Hadley Harbor Photo courtesy of Josh Shortsleeve

Ricketson also wrote about his impressions of Naushon. “On the afternoon of the 27th of June, 1856, in company with a congenial friend, I visited this island. Our objective being to see the natural beauties and productions of this comparatively unmolested realm of nature, we at once proceeded into the ancient woods, where we were soon amply rewarded by a sight of some of the noblest trees and forest ranges we had ever seen. The beeches, oaks, and other trees here grow to a large size, many of them undoubtedly of great age.”

Nearly 200 years have passed since the court order halted the tree cutting on Naushon, and the wounded area at the island’s middle and west end has healed by timeless regeneration. The one remaining and special grove of beech forest is the last living example, and final stronghold of the virgin woodlands of the past. Standing 100 feet and taller, the trees—which can live up to 400 years—remain protected in a private woodland preserve near the island’s north-central end.

Here on the secluded island of Naushon, this old growth forest grows undeterred, reaching towards the sky, each tree capable of growing five to seven times longer than a human lifetime. For many a century, stealthy moccasin-footed Native Americans visited Naushon, trodding along game trails and over the leaf-covered roots of these great trees, clinging to the dust and spirits of many generations of ancestors.

In the mid-1800s, a Concord Transcendentalist came along, “wishing to get a better view of the ocean.” Along with the view, Thoreau discovered a magnificent forest that may forever be remembered by his words: “a noble and primitive wood.”

Elwood O. Mills, Jr. is the former director of Mass. Audubon’s Ashumet Holly and Wildlife Sanctuary. From 1985 to 2004 he also led many tours of Cuttyhunk as well as winter seal cruises to the north end of Naushon Island.

Explore these beech forests of Cape Cod:

Lowell Holly Reservation

On the Upper Cape, Lowell Holly Reservation has one of the few remaining stands of American beech forest preserved by the Trustees of Reservations. In the off-season, the trails are accessed from a 10-car parking lot on South Sandwich Road in Mashpee. From Route 130 in Mashpee, take South Sandwich Road for seven-tenths of a mile, and look for the Trustees sign and parking lot on the left. From Memorial Day to Labor Day, visitors may drive on the private dirt access road (across the street from Candlewood Lane), into the Reserve, daily, from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

The Province Lands Beech Forest

At the very tip of the Outer Cape, a beech forest in Provincetown is protected in the Province Lands by the Cape Cod National Seashore. This is a popular spot for bird watching during spring migration in May. Visitors can access the hiking trails, picnic area, and the bike path from the large parking area. Dogs are allowed on park beaches and in the parking area, but not on marked trails. Restrooms are open from May through Columbus Day. From Route 6 in Provincetown, take Race Point Road for four-tenths of a mile; the parking entrance is on the left.

The post “A noble and primitive wood” appeared first on Cape Cod LIFE.

Photography by Kelly Cronin Bicknell

Cape Cod artist Denise Kelly enjoys the interaction of light and landscape—and more

Stepping into Denise Kelly’s home is like walking into a museum: interesting artifacts, including an ornate telescope, are displayed in abundance; large glass windows let in the afternoon’s fading light; and many of the artist’s framed paintings adorn the walls.

Upon viewing any number of Kelly’s paintings, one quickly gets a sense as to why the artist was drawn to Cape Cod. A critical aspect of Kelly’s work is the use of light and shading, as seen in “View from Miller Hill,” an oil painting that depicts a large hill on Bradford Street in Provincetown, overlooking a neighborhood in the East End. The Cape’s ethereal light has been a draw for countless artists over the years, and for Kelly it was a natural fit.

“There’s something about the light on the Cape,” Kelly says. “I enjoy observing the way the light interacts with the landscape. Truro lies between the Atlantic Ocean and Cape Cod Bay, offering exceptional light and ever-changing scenery.”

During a recent visit to Kelly’s studio, an organized and well-lit space in the upstairs of her Truro home, the representational (or figurative) oil painter shared why she loves what she does and how she has found happiness in creating art. She also talked about her artistic process, gave details about several of her paintings, and attempted to answer the question: how did she—a native of France and a former New York City fashion designer—end up painting landscapes on the outskirts of the Cape?

For Kelly, life as an artist is about keeping her eyes open to the world around her, dissecting every detail, and then deciding what might make for a good composition. “I’m always tuned in to things I see around me,” she says. “Painting consumes so much of my thinking.”

Photography by Kelly Cronin Bicknell

The time she puts into a given piece—sometimes weeks or months—is a process the artist enjoys. “It’s rewarding to start with a thought or idea and be able to achieve it in a painting,” Kelly says. She views the layout of each painting as vitally important. “The most important step is composition,” says Kelly. “If the composition is wrong, sometimes I even have a physical reaction. My chest will ache until I alter the artwork.”

Kelly’s meticulous approach is rooted in the training she received from her mentor, the late Curtis Rosser of Orleans. “I want to paint it exactly the way it is in reality,” she says, “I was taught that it’s amateur to do otherwise.” When she first sought out Rosser as a potential mentor in the mid-1990s, the artist visited her studio, reviewed her work, and began to give her assignments and critiques on completed pieces. “The critiques were rather painful at first,” Kelly recalls, but she adds that the feedback helped her grow as an artist. “I would paint furiously,” she says, “so I would have more to show.”

Kelly generally paints in the afternoon, often playing classical music while she works. “I am detailed and a realist,” she says. “I like focusing on the architecture and the connection between people and buildings.” In her painting “Morning on Commercial Street,” for instance, Kelly depicts a well-known area in Provincetown from the perspective of a visitor on the street. The businesses along the road dominate the composition while visitors mill about in the background.

In her work Kelly likes to challenge herself, both in taking on new techniques and in tackling complex subjects. She frequently incorporates water into her paintings, such as in “On the Hunt,” which illustrates a crane standing in water. “I like my paintings to be moving,” she says, “with characters doing something or waiting for something.” In another piece, “Grand Central Station,” commuters can be seen walking along hand in hand, checking the train schedule, and purchasing tickets. “There are so many people going somewhere, doing something,” Kelly says, “and that intrigues me.”

Another of the artist’s personal favorites is a large, 30” x 40” study she completed of the American flag. Titled “Saluting the Flag,” the piece concentrates on the folds of the material as it waves. Bold red, white, and blue hues take up much of the canvas; planes soar through the clouds in the background; and the foreground is filled with the details of the fabric. The painting hangs above a staircase in Kelly’s home.

Photography by Kelly Cronin Bicknell

Winter is Kelly’s favorite season, and this sentiment is evident throughout her body of work, which includes many scenes of snowy streets and rooftops in Provincetown. In many of the paintings, the snow looks as if it would be cold to the touch. In her work, “Bringing Home the Tree,” an adult and child hold hands while dragging a Christmas tree down Atwood Lane in Provincetown’s west end. “I have used that lane as a setting for several paintings, which have always sold,” Kelly says. “It reminds one of old P-town.”

To start each painting, she always includes a solid foundation—traditionally known as the under-painting—in each of her pieces, a step that’s crucial to her process. “[Without this step] I would feel that the piece is not complete,” Kelly says. “I wish I used less detail, but it’s my nature.”

Raised in Paris, Kelly recalls that she was always inspired to create. “Even as a child, I was with a pad, drawing,” she says. Kelly moved to the United States with her family when she was 17. They settled in Rochester, New York, where Kelly’s mother’s relatives lived. After graduating from high school Kelly moved to New York City, where she earned a degree in fashion from the Traphagen School of Design. She then worked in the fashion industry for 20 years as a designer.

In New York she met her husband, David Kelly, through a cousin who worked with him in the financial services industry. The couple long planned to retire on Cape Cod, and bought land in Truro during the late 1980s. “We built our home in 1991,” Kelly recalls, “to be welcomed by Hurricane Bob. Fortunately, the storm caused little damage.”

Kelly retired from her career in fashion in 1989. Though fashion design offers opportunities for creativity, Kelly says, for her, the profession was more of a business than a pure, creative process. “I wanted to paint and answer to myself,” she recalls thinking. “I now realize that what I wanted to do all along—and what would have made me happiest—was painting.”

Photography by Kelly Cronin Bicknell

Once on the Cape, Kelly began to paint more and more. “Before long, it took over a good part of my life,” she says. “An art studio soon became a necessity—and it came as a special gift from my husband.”

With more room to work, Kelly was able to focus her energy on her craft—and sales and recognition followed. After receiving a “Best in Show” award at the Leo Diehl Exhibition Juried Show at the Chatham Art Center in 1997, Kelly was invited to exhibit her work at the Winstanley-Roark Fine Arts Gallery in Dennis. “I did very well there until the downturn in the economy,” says Kelly. “At that point, I decided to retire to my studio and just paint.”

When considering her artistic influences, Kelly cites the Dutch realist painters, including Johannes Vermeer, as well as American painter John Singer Sargent. Further, many of her paintings echo the work of James Whistler, a 19th-century artist from Lowell. Whistler is credited as being the founder of Tonalism, an art movement where a low-contrast color palette is used to create atmospheric effects in paintings, especially in landscapes. This influence can be seen in Kelly’s brushstrokes, color palette, and her compositional choices of snapshots of Cape Cod life. “On my life’s journey, I have met people who have inspired and supported me, and teachers who gave me the knowledge to hone my craft,” she says. “I will always be grateful to them.”

In addition to painting, Kelly says her biggest passions are spending time with her husband, and practicing yoga. “I find being aware of the physical body is beneficial to my painting,” says Kelly. “Meditation allows me to focus.” She also loves playing Scrabble and sometimes hosts Scrabble marathons with friends.

Kelly’s advice for aspiring artists? She suggests honing one’s skills, proceeding at one’s own pace, and possibly developing a signature style. “Learn practical technique,” she says, “but paint in your own way. People go to demos, and it’s like watching grass grow.”  As she herself has experienced, success as an artist is not something that comes about overnight. “You will have failures,” Kelly says, “and those will get you to your successes. If you really love it, you’ll get where you want to be.”

Denise Kelly’s studio is at 5 High Ridge Road Ext. in Truro. For more information about the artist, visit denisekellyfineart.com, or call 508-487-4255.

Sarah A. O’Brien is a freelance writer who lives in Boston.

The post Making Connections appeared first on Cape Cod LIFE.

This photo show the historic Gay Head Lighthouse prior to its move back from an eroding cliff face in 2015. Photo courtesy shutterstock/matthew bird

Forty-six feet. In 2014 only 46 feet stood between the historic Gay Head Lighthouse on the west coast of Martha’s Vineyard and a retreating cliff face. Erosion had eaten away at the once ample cliff-side, leaving the historic light in a precarious situation. Racing against time and tide, local residents and community groups got involved, obtaining ownership of the light and raising the funds necessary to move it back from the cliff and out of harm’s way.

The current Gay Head Lighthouse was built in 1852 and completed in 1856. The structure stands along the beautiful clay cliffs in Aquinnah, the Vineyard’s westernmost town. The 52-foot light replaced the area’s first lighthouse, an octagonal wooden structure which was built in 1799 to guide whaling ships and other vessels passing by Gay Head, and to help them steer clear of Devil’s Bridge, a dangerous shoal of boulders that extends northeast off the coast of Aquinnah for about a mile. Even with the lighthouse in place, several ships have been lost in the area over the years, including the 275-foot SS City of Columbus, which ran into the boulders on January 18, 1884. The wreck claimed the lives of 103 passengers and crew—and remains one of the worst maritime disasters in New England history.

Many are likely aware of the move of Gay Head Light back from the cliff’s edge in 2015, but erosion in the area is nothing new. In 1844, just 45 years after the original light was built, it was moved back 75 feet from the eroding cliffs. That would not solve the problem forever, though. According to research conducted by the Martha’s Vineyard Commission, from 1845 to 1979 the Gay Head cliffs continued to erode at a rate of two and one-half feet per year. In recent years, storms have done a number on the cliffs, often sending large chunks of clay and soil crashing down the cliff.

After the move of the lighthouse. Photo courtesy of Paul Rifkin

Byron Stone, a research geologist with the United States Geological Society, says erosion in this area is not just a factor of wind and waves. “There are freshwater springs located inside of the bluff which drain out along the face,” Stone says. “The fine materials in the layers underground hold up springs the size of soccer fields. The bluff is 120 feet above sea level, and the perched water tables sit between 40 to 70 feet below where the lighthouse stood. The rain seeps down into these tables and can cause landslides of the bluff. The erosion problems are more an issue of the rain above than the waves below.” 

As the cliff continued to erode, some in recent decades began to sound the alarm that the lighthouse may have to be moved once again—but first, the structure had to be saved from demolition. In 1985 the Coast Guard planned to tear down the light and replace it with a simple metal pole with a blinking signal. Len Butler, chairman of the Gay Head Light Advisory Board, says this is not uncommon, as six to 12 lighthouses across the country—often lights that no longer are being used as navigational aides—are disposed of each year due to the cost of maintaining them.

Instead of being razed, the light was transferred in 1985, via lease, from the Coast Guard to the Vineyard Environmental Research Institute (VERI), a non-profit organization that conducts oceanographic research including studying the effects of ocean storms on the erosion of the island. VERI was granted ownership rights for 35 years. In 1994, the lease on the light was again transferred, this time to the Martha’s Vineyard Museum. When the Coast Guard deemed the light “surplus property” in 2013, the Town of Aquinnah applied for and was granted outright ownership of the structure, effective in February of 2015.

In 2010 Richard Skidmore, keeper of the light since 1990, was walking on a path along the bluff when he noticed that about 40 feet of fencing had tumbled down the bluff face. The lighthouse needed to be moved—and fast, Skidmore thought. During the 1970s and 1980s, the Army Corps of Engineers had studied the area and concluded that the lighthouse was in danger of falling over the edge within 40 to 50 years. The toppled fence was the wake-up call the community needed.

Photo courtesy of Matt Gill

In 2013 the Save the Gay Head Light Committee was formed to oversee the task of procuring ownership of the light from the Coast Guard—and then raising the $3.4 million it would cost to move it. Time was of the essence, Butler recalls. “Thirty-feet of clearance was needed to get the equipment in to excavate around the lighthouse,” Butler says, adding that at that point in 2013 the light stood just 46 feet from the edge. Butler, who also works as a contractor, knew that professionals needed to be called in to move the light because the work, he says, involves “a completely different level of expertise.”

Hired to do the job was the International Chimney Corporation of Williamsville, New York. In business since 1927, the company looks for historical projects to take on, specifically those involving lighthouses. Joe Jakubik manages the company’s historical preservation division—and has overseen some fascinating lighthouse moves, including that of North Carolina’s historic Cape Hatteras Light in 1989. The company also moved both Highland Light in Truro and Nauset Light in Eastham in 1996.

“We learned our lesson with each lighthouse move,” Jakubik says. “With Highland and Nauset, the foundations of the lighthouses came up from the ground with [the structures]. That is not supposed to happen, but you learn as you go. With Gay Head, we got smart and got all the way underneath the lighthouse to account for the foundation. The move went just as planned, but for a few minor machine malfunctions.”

The plan for Gay Head was to move the lighthouse 129 feet back from the cliff along a spine of hard red clay that runs back from the cliff, thus avoiding any potential collapses along the way due to trapped springs underground. The move took three days and was completed on May 30, 2015. According to Butler, the 400-ton structure touched down at its new home without a speck of damage.

With the move complete, Butler says there is still some restoration work, including structural repairs, needed to completely restore Gay Head Light to its 1856 glory. Metal railings were recently installed atop the lighthouse—now open to the public daily—and Butler says more restoration work will continue this fall. In its new location, the light is believed to be out of harm’s way for 150 years.

For Butler, a native of Kentucky who moved to the Vineyard in 1971, this effort to save the light was an accomplishment for all involved. “This is an iconic symbol of the maritime heritage of Martha’s Vineyard,” Butler says. “The light is what first attracted me to the island. Standing here by the cliffs with my wife . . . I knew this was the place I wanted to live.”

Christopher Setterlund is a freelance writer from South Yarmouth.

The post The Changing Shape of the Cape & Islands: The Changing Shape of the Gay Head cliffs, Martha’s Vineyard appeared first on Cape Cod LIFE.

Marc LeBlanc of Ashland trains for the Falmouth Road Race. Photo by Alex Bouthillier

Presenting 8 great reasons to run on the Cape and Islands

There are many types of runners: weekend warriors, marathon milers, casual joggers, and lightning-fast sprinters, to name a few. Running is an activity one can take on as an individual or in a group, and along the winding roads of Cape Cod or on the treadmill at the gym. This inherent versatility may be the sport’s biggest selling point.

“Running is something you can do at 5 years old or 105 years old,” says Dave Corbett, an avid runner from East Falmouth who shares his passion for the activity daily as the manager of Marathon Sports in Mashpee Commons. “There’s no sort of membership card,” he adds. “You can do it as long as you’d like to, and it doesn’t matter if you’re fast or slow, the important part is to just get out there.”

In August and September there are a number of road races taking place across the Cape and Islands, from the heralded New Balance Falmouth Road Race on August 21, to the zany Insane Inflatable 5K in Brewster on August 13. In preparation for these and other running-related events, Cape Cod LIFE spoke with Corbett and two other enthusiastic runners to learn the reasons why they lace up their sneakers and running shoes to hit the pavement.

1. Running—it’s easy to get started

To get started in running, there is little needed other than a good pair of sneakers—and a plan. For beginners, Kevin Petrovek, the owner of Hanlon Shoes on Main Street in Hyannis, has just a few words of advice: take it easy and keep it simple. Newcomers to the sport, he says, should take it slow at first, alternating running and walking minutes, in order to build their strength and mileage.

To those who have not engaged in cardiovascular activity recently, Petrovek suggests working on one’s strength and stamina on a stationary bike before pounding the pavement. He adds that a number of run/walk programs are available locally, including one at Barnstable High School, where those interested in running can get started in the sport and learn from others.

2. It’s a great way to meet new people

Though running may be an individual endeavor, it boasts a passionate community of participants and supporters. “There is a camaraderie that comes with running,” Corbett says. “There are great local groups of runners who share a passion for running.”

Visiting a local running store is one way to meet others who enjoy running and learn about running groups in the area. For example, Hanlon Shoes hosts a Wednesday night running group out of its Hyannis storefront, and Mashpee’s Marathon Sports has a group that runs together on Tuesday nights. Both groups draw about 30 participants each week. Finding others who share in a hobby or passion may inspire you to continue doing it—and may even impact your performance, Petrovek says. “When you’re in a group, you tend to push yourself a little more” he says.

3. Discover new places

With its historic neighborhoods, expansive ocean views, and picturesque harbors, Cape Cod is a great place to visit—and, according to the interviewees, a great place to run. “As a runner, if you have ocean views or are on a trail, enjoying nature, I think you get more out of the sport,” says Marc LeBlanc, an elite runner and personal trainer from Ashland, Massachusetts, who plans to complete in his 18th Falmouth Road Race this month. “Being in nature helps you connect more to your body and appreciate your surroundings a little more.”

To find new places to run, Petrovek recommends looking up race courses online. The benefits include knowing the exact length of the route, and races are usually mapped to show off some pretty spectacular scenery, especially on the Cape and Islands. Petrovek says he enjoys driving to a new location—and going for a run when he gets there.

In the hot summer months, Petrovek says the best tip he has for runners is to park near a beach, go for a run, and then follow that with a dip in the ocean. “It feels like being reborn,” he says emphatically.

4. Set, track, and tackle your running goals

With running, improvement is often measured in miles and seconds. These increments can represent significant milestones in a runner’s journey. The ability to track progress keeps many interested in the sport, even after years of participation.

LeBlanc says the thrill of success—however a runner defines it—fuels further development. “You can always learn new tricks, new methods of breathing, tweak your strides. I know I’m meticulous with the details,” he says. “Running has taught me self-discipline, patience. As a runner, you can’t rush progress, or you risk injury.”

Participants in Marathon Sports’ Tuesday night running club pose for a recent group photo. Courtesy of Dave Corbett/Marathon Sports

5. Fill up the calendar

On every weekend of the year one can find races within driving distance, each offering a unique course and feel. Petrovek says road races have changed over the years, and many of the events today are as much about running as they are about socializing—and taking part in the post-race event. “Now you run races with people instead of against people,” he says. “Twenty, 25 years ago, it was a battle out there.”

Corbett concurs. “Some people are there to finish and others to compete,” he says. “It’s doesn’t matter. It’s more about being active and having fun.”

6. Enjoy the runner’s high.

Ever heard of the runner’s high? It’s for real, Petrovek says. “It’s a good drug,” he says of the feeling many runners experience during and after runs. “It gets your body’s endorphins going and it can change a lot of people’s lives.”

Corbett says running puts him in a better place mentally, “I’m more energized during the day and I love getting out there in the morning for a run,” he says. “It sets the tone for the entire day. In short, it makes you happy.”

7. Running can relieve stress

“Running is the cheapest psychiatrist you’ll ever find,” Corbett says with a laugh. “I tell people that all the time.” No joking aside, he adds that running is a great stress reliever for a lot of people. “No matter what’s going on in your life, if you get out there and have enough time by yourself, you can relax and clear your mind from all the stresses of life,” Corbett says. “And if great things are happening in your life, it’s a chance to soak it all in.”

8. It can be a lot of fun!

After reading reasons one through seven, what are you waiting for? Get out there and run!

A freelance writer from Hull, Nancy White is a regular contributor to Cape Cod LIFE magazine.

The post Hit the ground running! appeared first on Cape Cod LIFE.

Photo by Charles Sternaimolo

For two days last summer, photographer Charles Sternaimolo and I explored Chatham’s lovely Main Street. We traveled from end to end, from the Chatham Lighthouse in the east to Main Street’s western culmination at the Harwich line. Naturally, we spent the majority of our time downtown, interviewing and photographing business owners, tourists, and locals—and lots of dog walkers. It was early September, it was warm, and the colorful skies were worthy of a postcard.

During our time in town, we stopped in a number of Main Street’s fun shops and art galleries, and enjoyed great meals at local restaurants. We marveled at Fleurcita’s Clock, an attractive German time-teller outside In the Pink. We met an English couple that was excited to take a whale-watching trip and chatted with Lina Watson of Bulgaria who was selling Chatham gear at Soft as a Grape. We met travelers from Switzerland dining at Wild Goose Tavern, and then a woman from Oklahoma who was checking out the varieties at Chatham Cheese Company. What brings all these far-flung folks to Chatham? I’ll let summer resident Joan Casabian provide the answer. “It’s our passion—this place,” she says. “We come as often as we can. We cross the bridge, and it’s like . . . ahhhh!”

Head west for historic homes, Baker’s Hardware

Laura and Guy Mangs live on the west end of Main Street—almost in Harwich. They own a “half cape”—the style of home features a door with two windows on one side—and Laura says the neighborhood is the only place on Cape Cod where there are three “half-capes” in a row. The house was built in 1712 and the couple has been told the kitchen came from Nantucket, where it had served as a fishing shack. What do the Mangs think of Main Street? “It’s absolutely beautiful,” Laura says.

“It’s busy, but in a good way.”

We also met Bob Baker whose father, Cyrus, founded Baker’s Hardware in 1950. A stylish 1929 Model A Ford pickup greets visitors in the front yard. “It’s a nice walking town,” Baker says of Chatham. And what about this area, in particular? “You’re in South Chatham now,” he says. “It’s a big difference.”

The Candy Manor—and two Cooks in a coffee kitchen

At Chatham Candy Manor, we spoke with Kimberly Marsh who was busy dipping Oreos into milk chocolate. “These are one of the most popular things in the summer,” she says. “We can’t keep up with them.” Later, we met Susan Carroll who has been with the company for nearly 40 years. “I’m very happy with my job,” Carroll says, whilst making vanilla butter creams. “It’s a really fun place to work.” Her next assignment: non-pareils!

At Monomoy Coffee Company we met Pierrette and Rachel Cook, the mother-daughter ownership team. The café serves breakfast sandwiches, muffins, and more, and offers outdoor patio seating. “It’s fabulous,” Pierrette says of the location. “You get to see everybody.” Sip on this: the staff prepares “ice-coffee ice cubes” to serve in customer’s ice coffees. As the cubes melt, the drink dilutes not—and the extra caffeine comes free of charge.

Pleasant sights, signs, and memories

The view from the bluff overlooking Chatham Lighthouse Beach is breathtaking. During our visit, the sky was light blue, the clouds were moving above, and seals could be spied at a distance. Residences nearby—including many that had been captain’s homes in the 1800s—were attractive, too, with white picket fences, flowers, and porches. Many of the homes also sported clapboard signs with mood-setting phrases like “Ocean View” and

“Dawning Day,” and don’t forget “Time Out.”

By Chatham Light we met Robert and Julie Westergard of Pleasant Valley, New York. They were walking their rescue dog, Molly. It was very windy that morning—and they nearly needed to make another rescue. The couple had stayed in Eastham and their Cape Cod vacation was coming to a close.

“We’re going home,” Rob says, “but we don’t want to leave.”

Beautiful work and in abundance

The number of art galleries on Main Street—especially downtown—is stunning, and we browsed in a few of the galleries. Inside Chatham Fine Art we met a family from Long Island that was reviewing the collection, including a colorful rendition of the Chatham Bandstand.

Up the road apiece, we stopped in Forest Beach Designer-Goldsmiths, where company co-owner Steve Wardle says customers don’t need to worry about finding “SOS” at his shop—same old stuff, that is. A native of New York, Wardle owns the company with his wife Barb Knowlton, who hails from New Jersey. The couple showed us their inspired jewelry creations, and to further spark our interest, Steve fired up his welding torch so we could watch him work on a gold ring mount.

Photo by Charles Sternaimolo

Homes to write home about

Main Street in Chatham boasts many beautiful homes.

Community icons

In 2015, The Orpheum Theatre screened Steven Spielberg’s 1975 epic Jaws for four weeks—and it was likely the cinema’s top seller for the summer. Assistant manager Geoff Bassett talked about the Jaws phenomenon. “We have people that now make it a yearly tradition to come and see Jaws here,” he says. “It’s become an expectation.” The cinema’s two theaters together offer seating for 135, and the massive mural in the foyer features more than 100 well-known movie characters and film directors.

We found enthusiastic volunteer Bill Cullinane, 83, set up in the Chatham Chamber of Commerce’s tourist shack on Main Street. In the role, Cullinane helps get tourists where they want to go. He says the questions he fields most are: What can we see? Where can we eat? Where are the seals? And where are the sharks? “It’s a fun job,” he says, “It really is. People are often surprised they don’t have to pay for parking on Main Street.” One visitor who stopped in for a map and suggestions was Mady Gorman of Queens. “I love it,” she says of Chatham. “It’s like small town 1950. Everything is beautiful, green, and well-kept.”

In Chatham, there’s a lot to choose from

Canterbury Leather sells a variety of hats, shoes, sandals, socks, boots, belts, pocket books, and backpacks. Working when we visited, then-assistant managers Aimee Erickson and Kim Jerauld modeled some hats and chatted with us about the community. Chatham is a family friendly fishing town, Erickson says, with lots of shops and culture. “This time of year,” she says, “the adults come down who don’t have kids. It’s nice here through September.”

We stopped in Chatham Hardware at 624 Main St. to check out the colorful mini-cars in the window. The cars are for 2- to 5-year-olds and the staff puts them together in house. There’s a police car and a taxi, but store president Michael Colecchi says the fire engine is the most popular style; all have functioning lights. The cars range from $325 to $675 and the store sells more than 100 per year. Colecchi says some of the cars are for international customers who like them so much they’re willing to pay the expensive shipping fees. “It usually costs twice [the price of] the car to freight them,” he says.

Photo by Charles Sternaimolo

Yankee Ingenuity is a wondrous place with gift items I’ve never seen anywhere else. The shop has a jaw-dropping selection of shark-themed gifts, including a coffee mug that’s decorated with a serene swimming scene; when you pour in a hot beverage, though, a shark that was hidden in the picture emerges—and is ready for breakfast. A gift I decided not to further investigate was simply called “Bug Eyed Skeleton Bank.” Withdrawing, I passed a pint-sized porcelain shark sculpture that was eerily realistic-looking and seemed to be grinning at me. “Greetings, chum,” I imagined it saying.

We stopped in the Cape Abilities retail shop on Main Street. It’s hard to miss; it’s the lime green building a few blocks from the lighthouse. Employees Aaron Fiero and Ann Marie Campbell showed us some of the store’s different products, and Andrew Todoroff, the organization’s director of business development, told us about the blueberry pie-eating contests held at the store on Wednesday nights in summer. It’s open to the public and trophies are given out. Hint. Hint.

How much is that ducky in the window? In 2015, then-owner Cynthia Muenchow celebrated Ducks in the Window’s six-year anniversary. This duck shop has a fun origin story. Originally, the business was called The Corner Toy Store, and then one day Muenchow put ducks in the window. They were so popular Muenchow decided to sell only duck-related toys. Under new ownership, today, the store ships across the country and internationally. They even sell a “Duckinator” model with shades and a t-shirt that proclaims, “I’ll be Quack.”

Located in the “East End” of downtown Chatham, is Mermaids on Main. What’s the allure of mermaids? “They get away with things we might not be able to in real life,” says shop owner Tara Owen. Inside, customers can find a variety of mermaid artwork and décor items and other unique products. The company celebrates its 20th anniversary in 2016.

In addition to the works of local authors including Lisa Genova and Alice Hoffman, store manager Joanie Goodrow of Where the Sidewalk Ends Bookstore says adult coloring books were a popular item last summer. The store has a regular core of reading customers, Goodrow says, and is also dog-and stroller-friendly. “We are a family,” she says. “Chatham is a little off the beaten path, so when people get here they want to stay in town.”

We cooled our heels with 2 great meals

During a conversation earlier in the day, Chatham resident Guy Mangs recommended we dine at The Chatham Squire, where he particularly enjoys the veal and mussels. “It’s a fun place,” Mangs says. “It’s always packed.” Taking his lead, we enjoyed a meal fit for a knight indeed, including Caesar salad, wine, and a shrimp and chicken stir-fry.

The Red Nun is a great place to watch a game. There’s lots of sports memorabilia on the walls, including a Chatham Anglers’s jersey as well as one formerly worn by Patriots lineman Matt Chatham. The décor also features a ship’s wheel, a lobster claw, and lots of foreign currency. Also, it’s a two-minute walk from the Chatham Anglers’ home field!

The ever-charming Chatham

During our time in Chatham, we chatted with Cathleen Sulli of Ridgefield, Connecticut, who was visiting family on the Cape. “It’s my favorite place,” she says of the town. “I like to take photos, I like to garden, and my daughter likes to shop.” Another visitor we met, Mary Ella Walker, hails from Shaker Heights, Ohio. She, too, is enchanted with Chatham. “There’s a charm about it,” she says. “It’s one of my favorite places in the world.”

Main Street Chatham Photo Gallery

Photography by Charles Sternaimolo

[foogallery id=”31610″]

The post Welcome to Main Street Chatham appeared first on Cape Cod LIFE.

Max and James surfing in 40 mph winds at Katama Beach. Photo by Brian

Judy and I along with our son, Max, and his friend James Modic visited Martha’s Vineyard for four days early this summer. We stayed at the luxurious Charlotte Inn in Edgartown. If you have the opportunity, treat yourself to this “A Stay In Another Era” inn.

We rented a Jeep from Budget Car Rental in Vineyard Haven; the manager, Steve Cahillane, was kind enough to have the company’s Jeeps prepared, including permits, for off-road driving. If you can, be sure to visit East Beach on Chappaquidick. Otherwise, you can marvel at the beach’s beauty by visiting stg-capecodlifecom-staging.kinsta.cloud/shorewalks. On rented mopeds the boys toured from Katama in Edgartown to the Gay Head Lighthouse in Aquinnah. Speaking of Katama, one day Max and James went surfing, but the size of the surf turned out to be more than they had in mind. So we looked at our list of 108 Water View Restaurants from the July issue of Cape Cod LIFE, and headed for The Lookout Tavern in Oak Bluffs. Another of our favorite stops was also in Oak Bluffs at The Martha’s Vineyard Chowder Company.

Twice this summer Judy and I have gone to Cuttyhunk. Both visits were for sad reasons, as we attended memorial services for Cuttyhunk friends of ours. Oriel Ponzecchi’s son, John, and family organized a very nice gathering in memory of Oriel and her husband, Piero Ponzecchi. They are both dearly loved and dearly missed. Betty Tilton, widow of renowned fishing guide Charlie Tilton, did an equally nice job in memory of him. We all have such fond memories of times with Charlie. Bonnie Veeder, manager at the Cuttyhunk Fishing Club did a great job hosting both receptions, and we saw friends we had not seen in a long while. The memories of our family times there just came alive. When Judy and I were sitting in the tiny island chapel, we looked at each other and said, “26 years ago, this is where we were married.” Closer to home, Steve Purdy and Rachel Purdy Heilman, son and daughter of longtime summer resident, Bill Purdy, spoke heartwarmingly in memory of their dad. Bill too is dearly missed by his many friends in Cataumet and North Falmouth.

My wife, Judy, has been so helpful in her position as associate publisher I have been freed up to do other work. Did you see the list of 108 Water View Restaurants in the July issue of Cape Cod LIFE? Well, having lunch at one, and then dinner at another, five days a week, I will be all summer (11 weeks) just doing that job. One can’t write about “Cape Cod Life” if one doesn’t live it. On the subject of favorite restaurants, Judy and I have invited my sister Cathy and her husband, Bill Miller, to Alberto’s Ristorante to celebrate her birthday the last week of July. We plan to eat early and then attend a show at The Cape Cod Melody Tent.

This summer our sons, Max and Josh, have both bought their own boats. Now they take me for a ride. On the subject of boats, I was recently given one. Tom Chisholm, the son of Eloise and Tom Chisholm who lived next door to us in Cataumet for 30 years, visited recently to finalize the sale of the family property. He gave me his 12-foot fiberglass sailboat. Thanks again, Tom. I think he felt that his boat would be happier right here on Buzzards Bay. She is a nice little sloop rig. Currently, there is not a name on the boat; I was thinking of naming her “Tom.” Josh and Max have overruled me on that.

My Best,

Brian

The post Notes on the Summer of ’16, to date appeared first on Cape Cod LIFE.